Measure 1 1/2 inches from the skirt top all the way around. For me the easiest way is to baste 1 1/2 inches with my sewing machine using the biggest stitch. If you machine bed does not have a 1 1/2 inch mark to follow measure 1 1/2 inches from the needle and mark the spot with a piece of masking tape.
Press under a 1/4 inch seam towards the inside of the skirt all the way around the skirt top. I usually just eyeball it.
Then fold the skirt top on the 1 1/2 inch basting mark to the inside of the skirt. Press the drawstring casting but do not sew.
Find the center front of the skirt make a crease with the iron for reference.I usually place a pin right underneath where the drawstring casting is to help in placement of my eyelets.
Unfold the drawstring casting and trim your piece of fusible interfacing to fit between your reference pin and the 1 1/2 inch basting. Make sure the interfacing extends about 1 1/2 inches on both sides on your center skirt front. Press the interfacing on to the skirt. In this picture I am using fusible web and a scrap of the skirt fabric instead of interfacing. I found through experience that the eyelets fare better with some sort of reinforcement.
Following the directions that come with the eyelets use the eyelet tools and hammer to place an eyelet on each side of the skirt front.
Re-fold and press the drawstring casting to the skirt inside. Sew closed. Pull out the basting stitches.
To make the drawstring take the 1 1/2 inch by 44 inch piece of fabric you cut and press each edge in about 1/4 inch. I usually eyeball my 1/4 inch.
fold the edges together with wrong sides facing each other.
Sew close to the edge.
With your safety pin push the draw string through one of the eyelets through the casting and back out though the other eyelet. Tie both ends of the drawstring so the drawstring will not get lost in the casting.
I forgot to take a picture of this but here is what it looks like on another skirt I made.
You are almost finished!
Come back for part III
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